:root{--paper:#f3efe6;--ink:#191815;--muted:#726e66;--accent:#a9432f;--line:rgba(25,24,21,.23);--dark:#1c1b18;--max:1480px;--pad:clamp(22px,4.2vw,72px);--serif:"Iowan Old Style","Baskerville","Times New Roman",serif;--sans:Inter,"Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;--mono:"SFMono-Regular",Consolas,monospace}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:16px;line-height:1.5;overflow-x:hidden}body.menu-open{overflow:hidden}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}img{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}button,input{font:inherit}.skip-link{position:fixed;left:1rem;top:-4rem;z-index:999;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:.8rem 1rem}.skip-link:focus{top:1rem}.grain{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:200;pointer-events:none;opacity:.055;background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg viewBox='0 0 180 180' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.9' numOctaves='3' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='100%25' height='100%25' filter='url(%23n)' opacity='.7'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}.section-pad{max-width:var(--max);margin:auto;padding:clamp(90px,12vw,180px) var(--pad)}.eyebrow,.section-kicker,.meta{font-family:var(--mono);font-size:.72rem;letter-spacing:.11em;text-transform:uppercase}.section-kicker{color:var(--accent)}h1,h2,h3,p{margin-top:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400;line-height:.94}h2{font-size:clamp(3rem,7vw,7.5rem);letter-spacing:-.055em}.text-link{display:inline-flex;gap:1.5rem;border-bottom:1px solid;padding-bottom:.35rem;font-size:.82rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.text-link span{transition:transform .3s}.text-link:hover span{transform:translate(3px,-3px)}
.curtain{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:1000;display:grid;place-content:center;text-align:center;background:var(--paper);transition:transform .75s cubic-bezier(.76,0,.24,1);transform-origin:top}.curtain.hide{transform:translateY(-102%)}.curtain-mark{font:italic clamp(4.5rem,14vw,13rem)/1 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.07em;clip-path:inset(0 100% 0 0);animation:write 700ms .12s forwards}.curtain-rule{width:min(440px,60vw);height:1px;background:var(--ink);margin:1.5rem auto 1rem;transform:scaleX(0);animation:rule .6s .45s forwards}.curtain p{margin:.15rem;font:11px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.15em;text-transform:uppercase;opacity:0;animation:fade .5s .55s forwards}.curtain .curtain-theme{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1rem;text-transform:none;letter-spacing:.04em}.curtain.skip{display:none}@keyframes write{to{clip-path:inset(0)}}@keyframes rule{to{transform:scaleX(1)}}@keyframes fade{to{opacity:1}}
.site-header{position:fixed;z-index:100;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:98px;padding:0 var(--pad);display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr auto 1fr;align-items:center;border-bottom:1px solid transparent;transition:height .4s,background .4s,border-color .4s}.site-header.scrolled{height:70px;background:rgba(243,239,230,.93);border-color:var(--line);backdrop-filter:blur(10px)}.brand{width:max-content;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.brand>span{font:italic 2rem/.9 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.05em}.brand small{font:8px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase;margin-top:.35rem}.desktop-nav{display:flex;gap:clamp(1rem,2.2vw,2.7rem);font-size:.74rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.desktop-nav a,.header-actions>a,.menu-minor a{position:relative}.desktop-nav a:after,.header-actions>a:after,.menu-minor a:after{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;bottom:-5px;width:100%;height:1px;background:currentColor;transform:scaleX(0);transform-origin:right;transition:transform .35s}.desktop-nav a:hover:after,.header-actions>a:hover:after,.menu-minor a:hover:after{transform:scaleX(1);transform-origin:left}.header-actions{justify-self:end;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:2rem;font-size:.72rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.menu-toggle{border:0;background:none;display:grid;grid-template-columns:24px auto;gap:.2rem .7rem;align-items:center;cursor:pointer;text-transform:uppercase;font-size:.7rem;letter-spacing:.08em;color:inherit}.menu-toggle span{grid-column:1;display:block;width:24px;height:1px;background:currentColor;transition:transform .35s}.menu-toggle span:nth-child(1){grid-row:1}.menu-toggle span:nth-child(2){grid-row:2}.menu-toggle b{grid-row:1/3;grid-column:2;font-weight:400}.menu-toggle[aria-expanded=true] span:first-child{transform:translateY(2px) rotate(45deg)}.menu-toggle[aria-expanded=true] span:nth-child(2){transform:translateY(-2px) rotate(-45deg)}
.menu-panel{position:fixed;z-index:90;inset:0;background:var(--accent);color:var(--paper);transform:translateY(-101%);transition:transform .65s cubic-bezier(.76,0,.24,1);overflow:auto}.menu-panel.open{transform:none}.menu-inner{padding:140px var(--pad) 50px;min-height:100%;display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr;gap:3rem;align-content:center}.menu-inner>.eyebrow{grid-column:1/-1}.menu-major{display:flex;flex-direction:column}.menu-major a{font:clamp(3.4rem,7vw,7rem)/.98 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.05em;transition:transform .25s}.menu-major a:hover{transform:translateX(8px)}.menu-major sup{display:inline-block;width:3rem;font:10px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.1em}.menu-minor{display:grid;align-content:start;gap:1.2rem;font-size:1rem}.menu-note{grid-column:2;align-self:end;max-width:28rem;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.35rem}
.cover{min-height:100svh;padding:122px var(--pad) 38px;max-width:var(--max);margin:auto;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.cover-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;padding-bottom:.8rem;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font:10px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase}.cover-grid{flex:1;display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.65fr) minmax(330px,1fr);gap:clamp(1.5rem,4vw,5rem);align-items:center;padding:2rem 0}.cover-image{height:min(69vh,830px);margin:0;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.cover-image img{transform:scale(1.06);animation:coverIn 1.2s 1.1s forwards}.cover-image figcaption{position:absolute;bottom:0;right:0;background:var(--paper);padding:.65rem 0 0 .9rem;font:9px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase}.cover-copy{position:relative;z-index:2}.cover-copy h1{font-size:clamp(5rem,10vw,12rem);letter-spacing:-.075em;margin:.5rem 0 1.5rem;transform:translateX(-17%)}.cover-copy .dek{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(1.2rem,1.8vw,1.65rem);max-width:35rem}.byline{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem 1.2rem;margin:2rem 0;font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em;color:var(--muted)}.scroll-cue{align-self:flex-end;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:1rem;font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.scroll-cue i{display:block;width:80px;height:1px;background:var(--ink);transform-origin:left;animation:pulse 2s infinite}.image-reveal{clip-path:inset(0 100% 0 0);animation:revealImage 1s .8s cubic-bezier(.76,0,.24,1) forwards}@keyframes revealImage{to{clip-path:inset(0)}}@keyframes coverIn{to{transform:scale(1)}}@keyframes pulse{50%{transform:scaleX(.35)}}
.contents{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.8fr .75fr 1.4fr;gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,6rem);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.contents-intro h2{font-size:clamp(3.5rem,5.5vw,6.5rem);margin:.5rem 0 2rem}.contents-intro>p:not(.section-kicker){font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.2rem}.editor-note{margin-top:5rem;padding-left:2rem;border-left:1px solid var(--accent);font-style:italic}.contents-preview{height:500px;position:relative;align-self:center;overflow:hidden}.contents-preview img{transition:opacity .25s,transform .5s}.contents-preview.switching img{opacity:0;transform:scale(1.02)}.contents-preview span{position:absolute;left:0;bottom:0;background:var(--paper);padding:.8rem 1rem 0 0;font:10px var(--mono)}.contents-list{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}.contents-list li{border-top:1px solid var(--line);transition:color .25s}.contents-list li:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.contents-list a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2rem 1fr auto;gap:1rem;padding:1.2rem 0}.contents-list span,.contents-list b,.contents-list small,.contents-list em{font:9px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase}.contents-list b{font-weight:400}.contents-list div{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.2rem}.contents-list strong{font:1.35rem var(--serif);font-weight:400}.contents-list em{color:var(--muted);font-style:normal}.contents-list li:hover{color:var(--accent)}
.section-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:1rem;margin-bottom:clamp(4rem,8vw,8rem)}.section-head h2{margin:.5rem 0 0}.section-head>a,.section-head>p,.section-head>span{max-width:22rem;font-size:.8rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.story-lead{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.5fr 1fr;gap:clamp(2rem,5vw,6rem);align-items:end}.story-lead figure{height:min(70vw,700px);margin:0;overflow:hidden}.story-lead img,.food-lead img,.explore-card img{transition:transform .8s cubic-bezier(.2,.7,.2,1)}.story-lead:hover img,.food-lead:hover img,.explore-card:hover img{transform:scale(1.04)}.story-lead h3{font-size:clamp(3.2rem,6vw,7rem);letter-spacing:-.055em;margin:.8rem 0 1.5rem}.story-lead p:not(.meta){font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.3rem;max-width:35rem}.story-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.1fr 1fr;gap:clamp(2rem,6vw,8rem);align-items:center;margin-top:7rem}.story-grid article{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:1rem}.story-grid h3{font-size:2.2rem;margin:2.5rem 0 1rem}.story-grid blockquote{font:italic clamp(2.3rem,4vw,4.5rem)/1.1 var(--serif);text-align:center;margin:0}.index{font:10px var(--mono)}
.dark-section{max-width:none;background:var(--dark);color:var(--paper)}.dark-section>*{max-width:calc(var(--max) - 2*var(--pad));margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto}.dark-section .section-head{border-color:rgba(243,239,230,.3)}.dark-section .section-head>p{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.2rem;text-transform:none;letter-spacing:0}.culture-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.9fr 1.1fr;gap:clamp(2rem,6vw,8rem)}.culture-list{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.culture-list li{border-top:1px solid rgba(243,239,230,.25);opacity:.45;transition:opacity .35s,color .35s}.culture-list li:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(243,239,230,.25)}.culture-list li.active,.culture-list li:hover{opacity:1;color:#d96d53}.culture-list a{display:block;padding:2rem 0}.culture-list span{font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}.culture-list h3{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.2vw,3.8rem);margin:.6rem 0}.culture-list p{max-width:32rem}.culture-visual{position:sticky;top:100px;height:70vh;margin:0;overflow:hidden}.culture-visual img{transition:opacity .25s}.culture-visual figcaption{position:absolute;inset:auto 0 0;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;padding:1rem;background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(0,0,0,.7));font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}
.food-lead{position:relative;height:min(72vw,850px);overflow:hidden}.food-copy{position:absolute;right:4%;bottom:5%;width:min(560px,43%);background:var(--accent);color:var(--paper);padding:clamp(1.5rem,4vw,4rem)}.food-copy h3{font-size:clamp(2.5rem,5vw,5rem);margin:1rem 0}.food-copy p:not(.meta){font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.15rem}.food-notes{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:4rem;margin-top:4rem}.food-notes article{display:grid;grid-template-columns:150px 1fr auto;align-items:baseline;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:1rem}.food-notes span,.food-notes p{font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase}.food-notes h3{font-size:1.8rem}
.places{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.35fr .85fr;gap:clamp(2rem,6vw,8rem);align-items:center}.places-image{height:820px;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.places-image img{transform:scale(1.08)}.route{position:absolute;left:2rem;bottom:2rem;width:260px;background:rgba(243,239,230,.92);padding:1rem}.route svg{width:100%}.route path{fill:none;stroke:var(--accent);stroke-width:2;stroke-dasharray:400;stroke-dashoffset:400}.route.draw path{animation:draw 2s forwards}.route span{font:9px var(--mono);letter-spacing:.08em}@keyframes draw{to{stroke-dashoffset:0}}.places-copy h2{margin:.7rem 0 2rem}.places-copy>p:not(.section-kicker,.meta){font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.25rem}.places-copy dl{margin:3rem 0}.places-copy dl div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:100px 1fr;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:1rem 0}.places-copy dl div:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.places-copy dt{font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase}.places-copy dd{margin:0;font-family:var(--serif)}
.photo{background:#ded8cc;max-width:none}.photo>*{max-width:calc(var(--max) - 2*var(--pad));margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto}.photo-head{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr .55fr .75fr;gap:2rem;align-items:end;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:1rem;margin-bottom:5rem}.photo-head h2{margin:.6rem 0 0}.photo-head>div,.photo-intro{font-family:var(--serif)}.photo-sequence figure{margin:0}.photo-button{display:block;border:0;background:none;padding:0;width:100%;cursor:zoom-in;overflow:hidden}.photo-button img{transition:transform .6s}.photo-button:hover img{transform:scale(1.02)}.photo-wide .photo-button{height:min(70vw,820px)}.photo-sequence figcaption{font:9px var(--mono);padding-top:.7rem;text-transform:uppercase}.photo-pair{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.75fr 1.25fr;gap:clamp(2rem,8vw,10rem);margin:8rem 0}.photo-pair figure:first-child{margin-top:9rem}.photo-pair .photo-button{height:560px}.photo-link{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;border-top:1px solid;padding:1.5rem 0;font:clamp(1.8rem,3vw,3rem) var(--serif)}
.latest{max-width:1120px}.latest-list{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0}.latest-list li{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.latest-list li:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.latest-list a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:130px 120px 1fr auto;align-items:center;gap:1rem;padding:1.25rem 0}.latest-list time,.latest-list span,.latest-list em{font:9px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em}.latest-list em{font-style:normal}.latest-list h3{font-size:clamp(1.5rem,2.7vw,2.8rem);margin:0;transition:color .25s}.latest-list a:hover h3{color:var(--accent)}.archive-links{display:flex;justify-content:flex-end;gap:3rem;margin-top:2rem;font-size:.75rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.08em}
.newsletter{max-width:calc(var(--max) - 2*var(--pad));margin:0 auto 9rem;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr .9fr;background:#e7dfd0;border:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:10px 12px 0 rgba(25,24,21,.08)}.newsletter-copy,.newsletter-side{padding:clamp(2rem,6vw,6rem)}.newsletter-copy{border-right:1px solid var(--line)}.newsletter h2{font-size:clamp(3.5rem,6vw,6rem);margin:.6rem 0 2rem}.newsletter-copy>p:not(.section-kicker,.privacy){font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.3rem;max-width:38rem}.privacy{font:9px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em;margin-top:3rem}.newsletter-side{display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:space-between;gap:5rem}.stamp{align-self:flex-end;width:100px;height:100px;border:1px solid var(--accent);border-radius:50%;display:grid;place-content:center;text-align:center;color:var(--accent);font:9px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;transform:rotate(7deg)}.stamp b{font:2rem var(--serif)}#newsletter-form label{display:block;font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:.8rem}#newsletter-form>div{display:flex;border-bottom:1px solid}#newsletter-form input{flex:1;border:0;background:none;padding:.9rem 0;outline:0;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.2rem}#newsletter-form button{border:0;background:none;padding:.9rem;cursor:pointer;text-transform:uppercase;font-size:.7rem;transition:background .25s,color .25s}#newsletter-form button:hover{background:var(--accent);color:var(--paper)}.form-message{font-size:.75rem;min-height:1rem;color:var(--accent)}.newsletter-side>a{font-size:.72rem;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.07em}
.explore-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.25fr .75fr 1fr;grid-auto-rows:340px;gap:1rem}.explore-card{position:relative;overflow:hidden;color:white}.explore-card:after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;background:linear-gradient(transparent 40%,rgba(0,0,0,.72))}.explore-card.wide{grid-column:span 2}.explore-card.tall{grid-row:span 2}.explore-card span{position:absolute;z-index:2;left:1.5rem;right:1.5rem;bottom:1.5rem;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end}.explore-card b{font:clamp(2rem,4vw,4rem) var(--serif)}.explore-card small{max-width:130px;text-align:right;opacity:0;transform:translateY(8px);transition:.35s}.explore-card:hover small{opacity:1;transform:none}
footer{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:clamp(4rem,8vw,8rem) var(--pad) 2rem}.footer-top{max-width:var(--max);margin:auto;display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr;gap:3rem;padding-bottom:7rem}.footer-brand{font:italic clamp(4rem,9vw,9rem)/.9 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.07em}.footer-top>div p{max-width:35rem;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.1rem}.footer-top nav{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:.7rem}.footer-top nav b{font:9px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase;color:#aaa;margin-bottom:1rem}.footer-top nav a{width:max-content;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.1rem;border-bottom:1px solid transparent}.footer-top nav a:hover{border-color:currentColor}.footer-bottom{max-width:var(--max);margin:auto;border-top:1px solid #4b4943;padding-top:1rem;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;font:9px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase}.footer-bottom button{border:0;background:none;color:inherit;text-transform:uppercase;font:inherit;cursor:pointer}.lightbox{width:100vw;height:100vh;max-width:none;max-height:none;border:0;background:rgba(17,16,14,.96);color:white;padding:4rem}.lightbox::backdrop{background:#111}.lightbox figure{height:100%;margin:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center}.lightbox img{width:auto;max-width:80vw;height:auto;max-height:80vh}.lightbox figcaption{margin-top:1rem;font:10px var(--mono);text-transform:uppercase}.lightbox button{position:absolute;border:0;background:none;color:white;cursor:pointer}.lightbox-close{top:1.5rem;right:2rem}.lightbox-prev,.lightbox-next{top:50%;font-size:2rem}.lightbox-prev{left:2rem}.lightbox-next{right:2rem}
.reveal{opacity:0;transform:translateY(18px);transition:opacity .65s,transform .65s}.reveal.in{opacity:1;transform:none}
@media(max-width:900px){.desktop-nav,.header-actions>a{display:none}.site-header{grid-template-columns:1fr auto}.header-actions{grid-column:2}.menu-inner{grid-template-columns:1fr}.menu-note{grid-column:1}.cover{padding-top:105px}.cover-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;align-items:start}.cover-image{height:48vh}.cover-copy{margin-top:-1rem}.cover-copy h1{transform:none;font-size:clamp(4.8rem,18vw,8rem)}.contents{grid-template-columns:1fr}.contents-preview{height:350px}.contents-list{grid-column:1}.section-head{align-items:start;gap:2rem}.section-head>p{display:none}.story-lead,.culture-grid,.places{grid-template-columns:1fr}.story-lead figure{height:65vh}.story-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.culture-visual{position:relative;top:auto;height:60vh;grid-row:1}.food-copy{width:80%}.places-image{height:65vh}.photo-head{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.photo-head h2{grid-column:1/-1}.photo-intro{display:none}.latest-list a{grid-template-columns:90px 1fr}.latest-list span,.latest-list em{display:none}.newsletter{margin-left:var(--pad);margin-right:var(--pad);grid-template-columns:1fr}.newsletter-copy{border-right:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.explore-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.explore-card.wide{grid-column:span 1}.explore-card.tall{grid-row:span 1}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1.5fr 1fr 1fr}}
@media(max-width:600px){:root{--pad:20px}.site-header{height:76px}.brand small{display:none}.menu-inner{padding-top:110px}.menu-major a{font-size:3rem}.cover{padding-top:92px}.cover-meta span:nth-child(2){display:none}.cover-image{height:43vh}.cover-copy h1{font-size:4.5rem}.cover-copy .dek{font-size:1.1rem}.scroll-cue{display:none}.section-pad{padding-top:90px;padding-bottom:90px}.section-head{display:block;margin-bottom:3.5rem}.section-head h2{font-size:3.5rem}.contents-preview{display:none}.story-lead{gap:1.5rem}.story-lead figure{height:52vh}.story-lead h3{font-size:3.5rem}.story-grid{margin-top:4rem}.dark-section>*{max-width:none}.culture-visual{height:52vh}.food-lead{height:auto;overflow:visible}.food-lead figure{height:55vh}.food-copy{position:relative;width:calc(100% - 1.5rem);right:auto;bottom:auto;margin:-4rem 0 0 1.5rem}.food-notes{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:1.5rem}.food-notes article{grid-template-columns:1fr}.places-image{height:52vh}.photo-head{grid-template-columns:1fr}.photo-head h2{font-size:3.8rem}.photo-head div{grid-column:1}.photo-pair{grid-template-columns:1fr;margin:4rem 0;gap:3rem}.photo-pair figure:first-child{margin:0}.photo-pair .photo-button{height:55vh}.photo-wide .photo-button{height:48vh}.latest-list a{grid-template-columns:74px 1fr}.archive-links{flex-direction:column;gap:1rem}.newsletter{margin:0 12px 6rem}.newsletter-side{gap:3rem}.explore-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;grid-auto-rows:360px}.explore-card span{display:block}.explore-card small{display:block;text-align:left;margin-top:.25rem;opacity:1;transform:none}.footer-top{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.footer-top>div{grid-column:1/-1}.footer-bottom{gap:1rem;flex-wrap:wrap}.lightbox{padding:2.5rem .5rem}.lightbox-prev{left:.5rem}.lightbox-next{right:.5rem}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{animation-duration:.01ms!important;animation-iteration-count:1!important;transition-duration:.01ms!important}.curtain{display:none!important}.reveal{opacity:1;transform:none}.places-image img{transform:none}}

/* Layout refinements: keep the cover title in its column and close the Explore grid. */
.cover-copy{min-width:0}
.cover-copy h1{font-size:clamp(4.75rem,7.5vw,9.2rem);line-height:.88;transform:none;overflow-wrap:normal}
.explore-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(12,minmax(0,1fr));grid-template-rows:390px 300px;grid-auto-rows:unset}
.explore-card.feature{grid-column:span 7}
.explore-card.portrait{grid-column:span 5;grid-row:span 1}
.explore-card.standard{grid-column:span 4}
.explore-card span{gap:1rem}
.explore-card b{font-size:clamp(2rem,3.4vw,3.7rem)}
.explore-card small{max-width:140px;opacity:.82;transform:translateY(4px)}

@media(max-width:900px){
  .explore-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;grid-template-rows:repeat(3,330px)}
  .explore-card.feature,.explore-card.portrait,.explore-card.standard{grid-column:span 1;grid-row:span 1}
  .explore-card:last-child{grid-column:1/-1}
}

@media(max-width:600px){
  .explore-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;grid-template-rows:none;grid-auto-rows:360px}
  .explore-card.feature,.explore-card.portrait,.explore-card.standard,.explore-card:last-child{grid-column:1;grid-row:span 1}
}

/* Neutral eggshell paper: soft white with texture, without a yellow cast. */
:root{--paper:#f7f7f7}
.site-header.scrolled{background:rgba(247,247,247,.94)}
.route{background:rgba(247,247,247,.94)}
.photo{background:#e8e9e8}
.newsletter{background:#f0f1f0}